I woke up on the wrong side of the bed this past Sunday morning. I didn’t sleep well because I sneezed all night; I may have had a cold, or the painting chez Yaye may have affected me. And then there were the Gabonese (?), Ivoirian, and possibly Cameroonian neighbors. For whatever reason, they were […]Read more "I Been ‘Buked."
Twice in three days, I have heard people lamenting the fact that there are women who smoke in Senegal. The first was Fatou Mbaye. “I don’t understand how a woman can smoke!” after we’d switched tables at Sweet Coffee after the disgusting fumes of a cigarette wafted over to where we were placed. “I don’t […]Read more "Cigarettes: Not fit for Ladylungs"
On my way home from the research center today, I passed by a home with a large herd of sheep reclining outside. This is not uncommon; I only noticed because people seem to generally let their sheep out only on weekends. HOWEVER…one of the larger sheep was reclining on a horizontally-positioned (and by all appearances, […]Read more "Having a Seat"
Chez Yaye, people sing your name until it takes on a life of it’s own. In almost two years of knowing everyone here, not one single person has ever said my name correctly. This will not change. It’s MAH ree (rolled r, obvs) sah JACKsown and then giggle giggle ellipsis SOW, followed by more […]Read more "Eebooseesay"
I began growing out my dreads nearly 4 years ago. I have always gotten them professionally done. A few times a year, I would fantasize about learning how to do them, and as I realized that I would be leaving the U.S. for a country where women don’t wear locs, I promised myself that I’d […]Read more "On Desperation"
It’s 4:13 am and Wally is singing again. This little jerk will be the death of me. I’m used to the dogs barking, the children screaming, the sheep bleating, the roosters crowing, the ocean moving, the mosques demanding that we pray, at all hours of the day and night. But this fool and his daddy’s […]Read more "I hate Wally."